Sept. 1, 2008 From The Road: Dopey and Dosy in Shimonoseki

01 September 2008

I haven't been thinking about much apart from making it to my scheduled destination daily. Yesterday i reached Shimonoseki. It's like the Land's End of Honshu separated by a few hundred meters of water from Kyushu. It's a lovely place, and I've taken great pleasure watching the ships and boats going up and down the strait from the window of the youth hostel. There's a lovely view of the bridge connecting Honshu and Kyushu. It's spitting distance really. I can't believe how close it is. It's my rest day today, and I'm wandering around, spending time on my feet and off the bike. A definite requirement before tackling the mountains of Kyushu. I'm a little nervous about Kyushu. The same nervous feeling I had when I began a month ago. Not fear. Nerves because I don't know what to expect apart from what I can see from my map and schedule. I know there are big mountains for most of my route down through the centre of the island. More on that when I get there, yeah.

The days before arriving here have been about really roughing it because many campsites have closed for the season. Some of you may well know the summer holidays are over. So is the camping season despite the fine weather. I've been getting to campsites to find them closed, unavailable to any other people except people in cars, or both. In Masuda-shi a few days ago I rolled in asking around for campsites as usual. Nothing doing. Everyone I spoke to said Masuda has no campsites. Then, while standing at a red light wanting to go to the sento (public bath), a bloke came up to me to ask about the trailer. Yuma works as a receptionist in Tokyo. On holiday for a week, he has come south, riding the trains and enjoying the post school holiday rush. We chatted for a bit on the side of the road when he pulled out a map and showed me the campsite. No scale. He himself was kicking himself for checking into a hotel before seeing the place on the map. The directions were sketchy. I went past the turning on a route heading out of town and decided to ask a couple of guys enjoying a smoke and coffee behind a pile of milk crates. Who better to ask than a couple of guys behind milk crates? That was a brilliant idea. It turns out that they are the local milk delivery service and have very comprehensive maps and factory fitted GPS brain unit. They drew a detailed map showing the way to the campground at Manyo Park atop a hill. Top guys. It was dusk by now and they were worried about me not finding the place. Assuring them the map was good, I headed off. There were definitely worried, because a few minutes later car stopped beside me. It was one of the milkmen checking to see if I was OK. Then the other milkman came along on his motorbike riding with me up the hill to the campsite. Another case of people making sure I can get to the end of the ride safely.

By now it was 19h30ish, dark, and campsite closed. Nobody around. I snuck in to find a family camping there for the night. They made some calls to check whether I could setup there for the night. Nope, the bloke on the other end of the line said it was past the closing time, and suggested I go to Hagi, some 56km away. There are campsites there. Either I was being obtuse by thinking that he was crazy, or he really was crazy. I setup in a park nearby. Washed myself in the basin using my onsen towel and camping pot. The camping pot has many uses. About one in the morning I could feel a light being shone in my face, and a deep voice saying good evening. It wasn't God. It wasn't a dream. It was a police patrolman. "Please leave early in the morning" he said. "Yeah, yeah, I'm heading out at 05H30" I mumbled, and straight back to sleep. How polite. I was out of there a few hours later heading off to Nagato.

A few km outside of Nagato is a lovely little campsite right by the sea. The folks there were closing up the place for the season, but after some deliberation allowed me to stay there for the night at my own risk. "Just make sure you don't burn the place down" they said. "Sure," I said, "it'll be here next summer". The only catch was no toilet and shower. They had locked and barricaded it all. "You can toilet and wash in the sea" they said. "Sure" I said. Nothing more liberating that bathing and toileting in a large body of water! Well, there were taps, an onsen towel and a camping pot. I used that to wash, and broke into the toilet climbing through a gap in the barricade and using a Y5 coin to turn the lock from the outside. I didn't break anything, I promise, but I forgot to lock the door the next morn. I was complete starkers while washing thinking i was the only one there, when suddenly the place turned into an evening walk for some of the locals. At first a few geezers pretending they hadn't noticed me, followed later by women who definitely noticed me. By this time however I was clothed and respectable, squatting at my stove making a meal. I've realised through living like this everyday that shame disappears. I couldn't be bothered. I'm homeless, jobless, and making my way day by day with what I have, and the goodwill of people I meet. I was however relieved to have a proper wash at the youth hostel after riding 86km in 38 degree heat. See the layer running into the drain.

It's so far been a very colourful experience. I mean that in a good way. Everyday a new place, new faces, new stuff. It's impossible for me to put it all here, but I will be writing about it after. Now however, I feel I should say something about how the charity work is going. The target of GBP1000 was reached and surpassed. To date there's GBP1300 (excluding some offline funds). I couldn't believe how quickly this amount was raised. From the beginning of this idea, everyone has been supportive and encouraging. Getting this far is a sign of that. Thus far it's been a steady process of meeting people and becoming friends, rather than putting a charity leaflet in their hands and disappearing down the road. I like the way it has been, comfortable and intimate. I know that each of the people I have met in the last month will in their own way help spread the word. I'm happy with the way this project has progressed and am glad that the awareness aspect has taken priority over the fundraising. As I said before, everyone has a unique way of contributing. I'm grateful for that.

I'm off to Kyushu tomorrow knowing that I have a spare day in the bag for when it's needed. I had counted 30 days in August when planning (silly, but happy). I realised this thanks to the chat with my dad the other day.

km 2456, rain, again. I'm hungry.

Aug. 27, 2008 From the Road: High Heels, Cycle Shorts, Sand Dunes: Fashion Over Function

27 August 2008

Isamu san woke early to see me off from the campsite. I heard him shaking the water off his tent. We had rain, again. I don't think it'll stop until I...I don't know. Needless to say, all was wet. With the humidity levels sky high my pores were gushing before I even turned a pedal that morning. I wasn't feeling to great having had a rubbish sleep and my day started on a big hill. Legs screaming murder and bike creaking, I looked down and thought to myself "gees, I need to service those pedals". Torture.

It was beautiful riding though. Dramatic mountains and little fishing villages with nothing more than a few houses, a couple of vending machines and loads of boats and crab shops. This bit of coastline is all about crabs and squid. The evening before Isamu and I had watched the boats going out to sea at dusk, their lights becoming brighter on the horizon as the colour leeched from the sky. The boats mimicking the sun to call potential seafood to the surface. I saw the massive sun simulating light bulbs now.

Less romantic were the climbs today. Steep. Very steep. 6, 7 and 8 percent inclinations in most places. Over and over again. I was so sweaty I could damn well have been in water. My hands took punishment today, not being able to grip the bars because they were so sweaty. Every sway of the bike on climbs meant the grip got tighter, hanging on for dear life and waiting for the pain to end. The handle bars slipping out of my hands. Lots of screaming and shouting again. The road followed the contours of the mountains all the way, winding in and out of the rocks and lush vegetation. The a sign of some downhill! I rounded another of countless bends in the road and was smacked by the view of a new prefecture, Tottori. A sharp contrast from Hyogo: sandy beaches, flat land, well, almost. What a view. What a place.

I made my way to Tottori sand dune. You can't see it from the road, you don't know where it is. The landscape tell nothing of it's existence. All you can do is follow the signs and the road that leads there. Tourist capital. Women sporting short skirts, frilly tops and high heeled shoes. Most inappropriate for walking in the sand and keeping the nail varnish gleaming on the toes. I looked down and saw my cycling shorts and thought "something for everyone". Was looking the right wreck following the mountains earlier. Oh, the sand dune. Quite a sight, but I was in no mood for crowds oooing and aaahing over this mound of sand at the sea. Camels to do the Lawrence of Arabia in Tottori. Horse and cart rides for whoever was interested. A splitting image of me towing my trailer up hills laden with stuff. Ha! I spent nothing but a few minutes there and was on my way to Kurayoshi to spend the night at the Morimoto's (friends of Joe in Mitsue).

I don't know how I got through today. I couldn't even celebrate reaching the 2000th kilometer.

I was warmly received by the Morimoto's. Yummy food, a beautiful home, and lots of talking. We sat around the table hunching over the map, seeing where I had been. Tales from the road, and another night in a different place. Most rides for me go in a loop from home to home. This one keeps going south. I can't believe it's been almost a month. Two more weeks to the end, barring any problems. Ah yes, problems. Remember the pedals?

About the pedals. I left the Morimoto's after an interview with the Nihonkai Newspaper over a rather long breakfast. Making my way to Matsue City, where I'm currently typing this to send to Steve. Rain again. Break. I broke a pedal. Fortunately it wasn't so bad and I didn't come off. But it wasn't reparable from my assessment. But 10km to go to Matsue. I managed to ride it. Rain, broken pedal, is there a bike shop where I can get this replaced? And it's nearly 17h30. But what the mountains here have taught me is that there are uphills and downhills. The downhills are only sweet when you get to the top. So the light came on and was burning bright for me today. I searched and I found a bike shop tucked away someplace. "Do you have Crank Brothers Egg Beaters?" I inquired. "Hmm, Crank Brothers...Nooo" he replied (oh, egg beaters because they look like egg beaters, and Crank Brothers being the brand). "I've broken a pedal" I said " and would like to replace it with the same type". He looked at it thinking it could be fixed. Nope, it can't. Then he dissappeared for a bit in the gigantic toolbox where he was working on a bike, and emerged with a pair of Egg Beaters. Like I said, the light was on and burning brightly for me. "How much?" I asked, hoping I wasn't going have my pants pulled down over the price. "Y4000" he said. Done. Peeped in my wallet to find only Y3000. "I need to go and get some money. I've only got 3000" I said. "No worries, Y3000 it is. I didn't know I had them, so you can have them for 3000". And so my day was made. I'm sporting new pedals that look and feel a whole lot better than the previous pair for a fraction of the cost anywhere else on the island.

Speaking of which, I should go and make use of them now.

Aug. 26, 2008 From the Road: Coasting the Sea of Japan

8/26/2008
Choosing to ride the Sea of Japan coast is the best decision yet. The view today and everyday is testimony to that. Yesterday I was welcomed into the home of an ex-Japanese Coastguard man upon my inquiry for a campsite. He and his wife now run a marine sports club and equipment rental place at Yura Beach in Miyazu. If you're ever there, look up Marina Fiji and visit them. The name is Onishi-san. They fed me and gave me a bed for the night, plus breakfast! One more act of kindness I have experienced.

Today, I'm camping again and have made friends with a university student from Mie University in Tsu City(he's studying agriculture!). Lovely chap. We've just been watching the view I've just photographed from Imakoura Camp-jo.

The 100yen a minute showers mean that cleanliness comes at a premium. 300yen is all I had. The high power paint stripper shower head did most of the work. The upside was no lights and the liberating experience of walking around naked in the dark with all the nocturnal creatures. Power-hosed and liberated in three minutes... I could camp forever.

A word about my new friend. He's 19, studying agriculture at Mie Daigaku in Tsu City. He's walking and using the trains to travel. His final destination is Okinawa(started from Aomori). His name is Amu Urayama. Good luck mate, and be safe!
Chetan

Aug. 18, 2008 From the Road, conquered Hokkaido

Aug. 18, 2008
I'm writing this on my cellphone to Steve following night after sleepy night trying desperately to keep myself and everyone updated. Hokkaido was beautiful, and I got to ride with BEE Japan the first two and half days. Google their page! Good times; then, it was solo from Tomamae-cho into wide open spaces, getting wonderous(if that's a word) from people, some of whom have become friends; people who have looked after me, making sure I've eaten, I'm okay and ready to roll. Complete strangers. There's something about soloing like this, you're exposed to the elements on a bike with a trailer, which had been the start point for all my conversations. I've met at least one new person everyday and chatted with them like we knew each other from some place. Really wonderful riding too! Though, I confess to wishing for continuous mountain climbs over rolling hills.

I'm safe and in Niigata tonight. In a B & B, which isn't as glamorous as it sounds; a lovely, cosy place though in a quite part of town. A chance to dry my things after days of rain and more to come, I hear.

There's been loads of screaming and shouting by me at Mother Nature and cars and trucks making bow waves through puddles. But, I love her despite conspiring to keep me off the road and f--up me schedule. On target to date, 1213km later. Got another big one tomorrow in 30 degree heat. Time for bed now.

mount your bikes

Well, it's tomorrow already, and I'm still awake doing stuff. The nerves having been building over the last few days and the packing has been somewhat of a nightmarish activity, especially when I found out that the weight limit for surface mail to South Africa had gone from 30kg to 10kg! I had to repack everything. Oh, it's not really stressful, I'm just too crazy to notice the stress at the moment, or the fact that I'm awake at this hour.
My good friend Steve Munoz will be helping me keep this up to date while my legs a whirring away on the bike for the next six weeks. Thanks Steve!
Right. I'm off...with about 40kg of gear bike and trailer. Hmm, nothing to declare, nothing to check in que, is it?

countdown

Nine more days before I head to the start line. Feelings? Excitement and nerves. Mostly excitement though. Wakkanai...